How to Progress in Rock Climbing - Identify your Limiting Factors

As the difficulty increases, the rock becomes less forgiving and one must find an exact sequence of movements in order to reach the top. Climbing vertical rock is like performing a carefully choreographed dance. But how do you obtain that fluid, seemingly effortless dancing up the rock? You know it is not only about the size of your biceps. So before getting on the campus board doing pull-ups, take a serious look at your other limiting factors.

When climbing well on your maximum level you are absolutely focused, knowing that one small mistake will have you pending in the rope. To become one with the rock and send harder routes requires not only physical strength but also technical, mental and tactical skills. Making efficient progress starts with identifying your limiting factors and then working goal-orientated with the right objectives.

To identify your limiting factors you simply need to observe yourself climbing, either by filming or through the eyes of your partner. Note the behaviors that inhibit you to link free-climbing routes and analyze their origin, whether caused by inefficient movements, disturbing emotions or lack of understanding. Below I have analyzed some behaviors that are typically observed among beginners, confirmed climbers, and sport climbers respectively.

As a beginner you might:
- Be scared of climbing up, falling off even on top-rope, and especially sitting down in the harness to descend, due to lack of trust in the material and your fellow belayer.
- Be focusing entirely on the handholds and end up completely stretched out instead of putting the feet up while still seeing the footholds. You do not realize the importance of ascending mainly with your les muscles.
- Stop in unbalanced and tensed positions looking for the next hold because you have no anticipation of the following holds or movements. When leading you concentrate mainly on clipping the next bolt.
- Climb mostly with the front of your body facing the rock because you only possess a small repertoire of movements.
- Over tense the whole body, which fatigues even more your untrained climbing muscles.

Being a confirmed climber (climbing French grades 5c to 6b) you might:
- Observe a degradation of climbing capacity when climbing above the point of protection, when tired, and when climbing in impressing settings. You are not yet able to commit fully to your climb and also refuse to fall in a move; you tend to grab the runner instead.
- Not be able to interpret the terrain (reading short sequences as well as route finding) quickly and correctly.
- Climb spontaneously, without finding resting positions, relaxed positions to clip to bolts, or preparing before executing the key movements. You end up climbing too slow when it is hard and often stay looking for the next hold with bent arms.
- Be insecure about security maneuvers that are not yet automated, such as building belays on mulit-pitch routes and rappelling.
- Not be able to force on small handholds and lack precision and confidence standing on small footholds.
With sport climbers I means you who climb regularly and send routes from French grade 6c and harder. You might:
- Lack fluidity in your climbing. You do not necessarily consider every movement as a preparation for the next. You do not profit from kinematics of the previous movement such as re-bounces or pendulums.
- Know how to program your self for a sequence but not how to readapt when climbing on-sight.
- Have stopped paying great attention to the basic security procedures. Have difficulties managing the ropes and gear on big walls or not knowing rescue and self-rescue techniques.
- Be hesitating when climbing on-sight, reserving your self for the crux, or be inhibited by fear of devaluation by not making a certain grade. You might stick to the opinion that a certain type of terrain is not your style, inhibited by previous experiences.
- Not always use your feet to achieve hooks, oppositions or to lock off resting positions. Finger endurance, power and muscles strength are also limiting factors now, and admit it; you are still scared of falling off high above the bolt!

When you have identified you limiting factors it is time to set your objectives for the year, period and single climbing sessions. I will treat how to structure your training in a future article. For now focus on one or two things at the time when you climb, and stay motivated to unravel the mysteries of every new route out there.

Article Source: http://physicalfitnessarticles.net

Eva Eskilsson is a climbing instructor, writing for Mountain Spirit Guides, a small guiding company based in Chamonix. They offer rock climbing courses to sunny destinations and mountaineering courses in the Alps.

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